Tenere 700: 8 Day, 4,360 km (2,709 mile) 'Rideabout' - 2 Provinces, 5 States, 1 Provincial & 4 National Parks + Tenere 700 Hwy Touring Observations

  8 Day,  4,360 km (2,709 mile), 'Rideabout' - 2 Provinces, 5 States, 1 Provincial & 4 National Parks - Aug 7-14, 2024

With each year, & officially a 'baby' senior at 66, motivation & ability to do the things I historically treasured become a plethora of balancing the increasingly disparate physical & emotional realities with the seductive biased recollections of my youth touring much of western Canada & USA, Baja/Central/Northern Mexico & 2 years in Texas via motorcycle...Bob Seger's "Against the Wind' echoes in my head 😎. 

After having to cancel my Yukon/Alaska trip this June because of recurring back issues, & while no where near 100%, was in need of some throttle therapy & seized an opportunity. The ensuing journey is as much an exploration of my current abilities for a concentrated high mileage solo 1 or 2 week long 'rideabout' without much conditioning & lead up riding as it is about my accessorized & modified Tenere 700's prowess for a lot of high speed, long hours on pavement...aka sport touring.

Packed & ready for 'rideabout' departure 👍

Bike & Setup - links below are to my blog reviews of each item

The Tenere 700 is a versatile & capable mid-displacement 'Adventure Tourer' that has really impressed me with it's overall competence, quality, refinement, fun factor & endearing synergy & cache. It has a big dirt bike feel while also being road friendly with a jack of all trades, master of none capability that I really enjoy & appreciate. That being said other more road biased motorcycles offer more features, comfort & power, particularly with regards to extended hwy use, the oem seat, wind management, lack of cruise control & tubeless wheels that run cooler & offer more convenient flat repair. 

The 'Seat Comforts Sport Touring' standard height seat' vs the oem seat improves comfort noticeably while allowing the movement necessary for off-road use + use of a sheepskin aides all day comfort, particularly in hot weather & the addition of hwy pegs affords multiple leg positions. Despite  concerted & successful efforts to improve wind management with the addition of multiple aftermarket & custom windscreen components resulting in dramatically reduced buffeting & noise allowing me to ride with my face shield up, the Tenere 700's upright & forward oem windscreen location limits ultimate effectiveness, particularly for taller riders & at the 70 to 80 mph (113 to 129 kph) hwy speed limits in the USA. High winds can be disconcerting on any motorcycle & the tall & high cg + narrow 21" front wheel of the Tenere 700 exacerbate the issue.

The Tenere 700's peach of a motor known for its refined, linear & torque rich output, of which mine has an ecu flash, MIVV Dakar exhaust, MWR Filtercage & Outercover + Guglatech Ultra 4 reusable air filter, never felt underpowered, even at 2,557 m (8,391')...only requiring a downshift or 2 if real urgency was need & mostly only at higher elevations or steep grades...roll on power in the top gears was sufficient most of the time. A 16 tooth front sprocket (16/46 = 2.875 gear ratio) provides 6.3% higher gearing which, imho, better compliments the T7 CP2 powerband for pavement & non-technical off-road use, while still permitting easy 2nd gear starts vs the oem 15/46 = 3.067 gearing. Fully adjustable & independently damped Rally Raid 35 mm Open Cartridge fork kits w/6.0 Nm springs & revalved oem rear shock w/90 Nm spring with correct sag & pre-load adjustment at both ends has been transformative in feel, tunability & performance allowing for increased control & safety margins, particularly at pace & fully laden. 

Luggage

• Giant Loop Moto Trekk 25 litre panniers + 4 GL 3.5 litre Possibles Pouches mounted with GL lockable & detachable pannier mounts for use with luggage rack systems (heavy duty material/construction that is missing a pressure relief valve, pannier mounts offer similar convenience/security as hard bags systems, Possibles Pouches would be more versatile if 5 litres); 
• MotoWolf 5-8 litre crash bar dry bags (versatile size, allows for convenient access of commonly used items); 
• Giant Loop Fandango 8 litre tank bag (sized & shaped well for the Tenere 700, waterproof, zipper mount system allows for tilting bag to side for easy access to gas cap); 
• Nelson Rigg - Rigg Gear Hurricane SE4040 dry bag (mounting system allows for bag removal without removing straps from bike; 
• tools, first aid kit, spares, misc items & a Giant Loop Armadillo Bag  7.5 l (2 US) gal fuel bladder are kept in a tail rack mounted Tactix 16 litre waterproof/lockable Defender Case & AliExpress sourced 5 litre waterproof/lockable aluminum tool box mounted to the inside of my left Dirt Racks Heavy Duty Soft Luggage Rack.

Day 1:  563 km (350 miles) Burnaby to Christina Lake, BC

The 1st few days of any ride are a mixture of excitement & acclimation, particularly if having not ridden consistently or much, as has been my recent situation & of settling in with your bike, gear, & routines. So a 2 day layover with family in Christina Lake made it more like a day ride than the beginning of an extended mile munching & site seeing journey.

Hwy 3 east view point over Osoyoos, BC

Day 2: Christina Lake with brother Dan, Vicki & Harmony (Boxer)

 

Day 3:  523 km (325 miles) Christina Lake, BC to Pincher Creek, Alberta

7 am departure, being fresh, little traffic, entertaining, winding mountain roads in good condition & sunshine make it is easy to rack up miles...temps were cool around 10-12* C (50-54* F), but warmed up into the mid 20s* C (mid 70s* F) in a few hours. After 7 years with First Gear 37.5 Kilimanjaro riding jacket & pants with bonded waterproof layers that always felt hot & clammy in warm/hot weather & on the recommendation of a friend who has been using Olympia's Dakar 2 jacket system for several years now, I am preferring my newly acquired (used) Olympia Dakar 2 mesh riding jacket & pants that have a zip in thermal jacket liner & rain coat (that can be worn outside as well) & rain over pants for much improved warm/hot weather comfort while not giving up too much on colder days, with the inherent compromise of having to stop to add or remove layers. I never needed my Gerbing heated jacket liner & pants, even when it was 6-8* C (43-46* F). It is always a compromise between keeping pace to reach your destination on schedule, enjoying the ride & scenery & taking pics...a quality action camera would be a welcomed asset vs stopping, getting gloves off & cell phone out of a pocket.

Hwy 3 north of Fernie, BC, Three Sisters & Mt Hosmer

Hwy 3 Crowsnest Pass, Island Lake, Alberta

Hwy 3 Crowsnest Pass, south view to Crowsnest Range, Alberta

Day 4:  290 km (180 miles) Pincher Creek to Big Fork, Montana

Another cool 7 am start & the emerging morning light is magical enroute to Waterton Lakes National Park where I came across a herd of 8-10 elk with racks, but they scampered up the hillside & disappeared before I could get the bike stopped & cell phone out for pics...for a moment all had crested the hill with them & their racks silhouetted against the early morning multi-coloured transitioning sky! Since I was only visiting about an hour no Park entry fee was charged.

Waterton Lakes National Park, Alberta

Prince of Wales Hotel est 1927

Waterton Lakes Park from Hwy 6 southbound to Chief Mtn USA border crossing

Chief Mtn from US Hwy 17, Glacier National Park, Montana

A momma grizzly & 2 cubs bounded across the road just before I stopped.

'Going to the Sun Road' - St Mary to West Glacier (east to west) - Glacier National Park, Montana

An 80 km {50 mile) narrow 2 lane winding road built in 1921-32 that is closed during winter months with sheer drop offs along the south side traversing the continental divide at Logan Pass 2,026 m (6,646') is best enjoyed east to west in the morning imho (no vehicle registration required for this direction). Scenery is immediate & dramatic from the St Mary east gate entrance until the bottom of Logan Pass or about 2/3 of the distance of the 'Going to the Sun Road' vs the last third to the West Gate entrance that has little elevation change as it parallels McDonald & Haystack Creeks & Lake McDonald. Glacier National Park is epic & breathtaking in an almost spiritual way with lots more to explore & I imagine quite magical with differing light & seasonal changes, much like the Grand Canyon.

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Logan Pass

Cousin MacKenzie, Ryan & Killian, Bigfork, Montana

It was fortuitous timing to coordinate an overnight visit with cousin Macs & finally meet her husband Ryan, as she had a day off between night shifts, but missed seeing their youngest son Bodhi by 1 day who was with Ryan's family until the next day when Kilian would depart with other family. We spent a few hours boating on 'Flathead Lake' & had dinner at 'The Sitting Duck' in 'Woods Bay'. It was great to get to spend some time with them 😀.

Day 5:  479 km (298 miles) Big Fork to Livingston, Montana

I was glad I opted not to stay in Bozeman, Montana as Trump was holding a political rally that day so pushed on to Livingston to set up tomorrow's ride through Yellowstone & Grand Tetons National Parks. 

Hwy 89 to Yellowstone National Park, Livingstone, Montana

Day 6:  646 km (401 miles) Livingston, Montana to Rock Springs, Wyoming

Aug mornings are cool in high elevation mountain regions & have settled in with zipping in the thermal jacket liner & donning the rain gear over the Olympia mesh jacket & pants, then layering down as the day warms up. The full coverage Barkbuster Storm hand guard covers extend use of summer & light insulated gloves. Epic scenery with many photo stops has a way of breaking up the day.

Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

Hwy 89 & the north entrance to the Park at Gardiner, Montana is a steep, winding, narrow road that climbs in elevation & crosses into Wyoming at the 7 km / 4 mile mark. The warm morning light of the rising sun illuminates the valley & hills, yellow grass land & geyser features with a magical glow.

Liberty Cap

Mammoth Hot Springs

Elk grazing

Upper Terrace Loop

Upper Terrace Overlook

Angel Terrace

There is a massive & picturesque geyser location about 5-7 km (3-4 miles) north of Old Faithfull along Hwy 191, but didn't stop because of the large amount of traffic & people. 

Old Faithful General Store

Old Faithful Geyser Hill

Old Faithful begins eruption approximately every 90 min & may last as long as 13 min

Old Faithful at peak eruption

2,518 m (8,262') Craig Pass south of Old Faithful village - a few km down the road from Craig Pass the road peaks at 2,557 m (8,391'), but the highest road in the park is 2,700 m (8,859') at Donavan Pass on Grand Loop Rd north of Canyon Village.

Grand Teton National Park, Jackson Lake, Montana

Herd of Bison that stopped traffic as they crossed the road from the main herd in a massive pasture...an estimated 6,000 bison roam free through out the park.

A thunderstorm broke out just as I approached Jackson, Wyoming which was the 1st rain of the trip, but turned sunny while I had lunch & later visited with Shari, sister of my oldest friend Steve Anderson.  Shari has done well with multiple store locations in Jackson & another in Salt Lake City. The sun was a teaser as rain began shortly after departing for Rock Spring for the night.

'Pearls by Shari' boutique store, Jackson, Wyoming

Day 7:  1,049 km (652 miles) in 12.5 hours Rock Springs, Wyoming to La Grande, Oregon

I should have checked the weather forecast while in Jackson yesterday & would have discovered that  the worst rain, hail & wind storm in decades hovered over southern Wyoming, Utah, western Colorado & stretching into Arizona, of which I could have opted to eliminate 3 hours of riding in rain & high winds through the 2,133 m (7,000') high desert from Jackson to Rock Springs where I discovered that my lightly used Alpinestar Tech 7 Enduro Drystar boots are NOT waterproof allowing water to penetrate at the fabric part of the boot on the foot...strike 2 for quality control for them as the left boot was already separating on the outside of the foot when new & preplaced under warranty. 

My plan was to continue south to Moab, Utah & dip into Arizona thru Monument Valley, then west toward Paige & start the return trip home...but because of the weather & continued issues with my back decided the smart play was to head for sunnier skies & home which turned into a marathon 1,049 km (652 miles) 12.5 hour day with 2 short durations of rain in the morning & hours of high speed interstate droning once I got to I84 in Idaho. 

Mental & physical fatigue is more prevalent in my mid 60s so have incorporated a few techniques to stay focused, fresh & alert:

• more frequent stops to get off the bike
• stretch, relax/destress & rehydrate often 
• ride within my comfort zone & skill set
• practice 360 degree situational awareness - a form of mental acuity/gymnastics to foster analysis & anticipation of issues, develop options & keep you present in the moment
• respect use & effects of stimulants & drugs while riding
• understand, recognize & know how to manage effects of heat, cold, elevation & adrenalin 
• ATGATT (all the gear all the time) - weather specific riding gear & technical base layers/undergarments to regulate body temperature & allow mobility in hot, cold & wet weather - water soaked neck-up/buff, skull cap/helmet liner, torso base layer in hot temps - layering, balaclava, insulated &/or heated gear in cold temps
• use of comfortable & effective custom fitted ear plugs & quality/quiet full coverage helmet to reduce fatiguing ambient, wind, tire & bike noise
• use of appropriate tires for the ride - I wish I had changed my Motoz Dual Venture front tire to a road biased tire for this trip as the DV produces a very loud & fatiguing high pitched wine between 85 & 105 km - it is bi-directional & had rotated it prior to the trip to promote more even wear but had little impact - the rear Motoz Tractionator GPS is far quieter & better suited for extended hwy use. 

1 of 6 fuel stops for the day, Hwy 84 Wendell, Idaho 

Day 8:  810 km (503 miles) La Grande, Oregon to Burnaby , BC

On the road by 7am for another marathon day of riding, temps dropped to 6-8* C (43-46* F) on the mtn pass just north of La Grande

Road construction delay, Hwy 97 between Ellensburg & Leavenworth, Wa

5 pm arrival at home in Burnaby, BC after 2 long days in the saddle covering 1,859 km (1,155 miles).  

Average Fuel Consumption over 4,360 km (2,709 miles) = 18.5 km/l (52.3 mpg UK / 43.5 mpg US)

Final Thoughts

Motorcyclists tend to fall into 2 categories...those that attempt to plan for most contingencies & over pack & those that don't...I seem to fall into the former & often manage to pack things I seldom use...this time it was my tenting gear, heated jacket & pants & about half of my clothes, so could have lightened my load & not required my Nelson Rigg Hurricane 40 L dry bag on the passenger seat. 

The bike performed flawlessly, my body on the other hand may need a few days to recuperate from fatigue before those youthful biased recollections attempt to seduce me into another 2 wheeled adventure 😉. 

Thank you to all those who became a part of this journey as I passed your way! The beauty, diversity & vastness of this part of the world, the kaleidoscope of colours at dawn lighting the tapestry of the landscape, the epic majesty of the continental divide high country, the sweet aroma of the early morning high desert & the sensations of my bike rising & falling with the changing terrain in a symbiotic trance give motorcycle travel another dimension...you are not an isolated observer...you are an active participant in a unique form of self-directed mental health activity called 'throttle therapy'! 

Hmm, for a moment there Rod Serling's monologue to the Twilight Zone just flashed in my head...for those of you old enough to know the reference, or those not familiar google it, re-read the last sentence in Rod's voice & cadence & pause just before 'throttle therapy'...lol