Ride: 16 Day 2,945 km BC Ride + 1,018 km of Ferry Sailings - Sunshine Coast, Vancouver Island, Haida Gwaii, Skeena/Nechako, Cariboo, Lillooet/Pemberton/Sea to Sky Corridor

June 07:  Depart Burnaby on a 16 day, 2,945 km or 1,830 miles of 'Roads of Discovery' BC ride to meet newly discovered relatives on my birth mother's side (Tanner & Higginson lineage) in Powell River, Lund, Comox, Port McNeill, Skidegate (Haida Gwaii) & Burns lake. Then spend 3 days with friend Cory in 108 Mile Ranch exploring back country Cariboo routes before the return leg home via Lillooet, Pemberton, Whistler & Squamish.

The above mileage does not include 1,018 km in ferry travel: 29 km Horseshoe Bay to Langdale ferry, 19 km Earls Cove to Saltery Bay ferry, 39 km Powell River to Comox ferry, 16 hour 510 km Port Hardy to Prince Rupert ferry up the scenic inside passage, 13 km round trip Skidegate Landing, Graham Island to Alliford Bay, Moresby Island, 14 hour 398 km round trip Prince Rupert to Haida Gwaii ferries & 9.6 km round trip ferry across Francois Lake.

1st in line for 7:30 am Horseshoe Bay ferry to Langdale

  

Howe Sound enroute from Horseshoe Bay to Langdale

Earls Cove ferry terminal

Motorcycle camaraderie is a given

Jervis Inlet enroute from Earls Cove to Saltery Bay

Powell River waterfront

West view from cousin Mary & husband Dan's home in Powell River

Tanner/Hilton Powell River relatives:  L to R: me, Ken McCullough (Tracy's father), Mary (nee Hilton) & Dan Hanson, Tracy/daughter & Luke Raftl, David & Donna Hilton, Roger Hilton

Powell River NW sunset from Mary & Dan's home

June 08:  Dan took family friend Doug & myself for a sightseeing cruise in his boat while the ladies went on a Powell River garden tour, then we all drove up to Lund to Roger's home for dinner & the amazing views from his home situated high atop a west facing bluff. Roger's father moved the family from Burnaby to Lund in 1960.

Breakwater of decommissioned cement boats at the historic Powell River Paper Mill closed permanently in Aug 2023. It was the 1st newsprint mill in Western Canada est 1912 and was once a major producer of newsprint, with one in every 25 newspapers worldwide printed on paper from the mill according to the City of Powell River.

Powell River from just south of Ahgykson Island.

A local kept a watchful eye on Dan's truck while we were on the water

Roger's water view home in Lund high atop a rock outcrop

June 09:  7:55 am ferry from Powell River to Comox & spend the day with Rick & Valerie Ross (Rick is a Tanner 2nd cousin).

 

Powell River ferry terminal

Comox Bay

Kye Bay, Comox

Driftwood Hut, Kyle Bay

L to R:  me, Val & Rick Ross (Rick is a Tanner cousin)

June 10:  Ride up island to Port McNeill to reconnect with Louise (94) & son Jerry Higginson (flew up last month with 1/2 uncle Jim Higginson for a celebration of life at Alert Bay where my birth mother Anita was born) stopping at Miracle Beach, Oyster Bay, Sayward/Kelsie Bay & Telegraph Cove.

Miracle Beach via Hwy 19A between Comox & Campbell River

Oyster Bay via Hwy 19A south of Campbell River

Sayward/Kelsie Bay on Johnstone Strait 1/2 way between Campbell River & Port McNeill

Beaver Cove

Telegraph Cove

Rebuild in progress for the old Telegraph Cove pier & pub that recently burnt down

Louise & son Jerry Higginson's home 'Tara' near Port McNeill...Louise was a fan of the movie 'Gone With The Wind'

June 11:  Up early for a cool & overcast ride to the Port Hardy ferry terminal for the required check in 120 to 90 min prior to the 7:30 am sailing time. 1st time on a BC ferry that motorcycles loaded last. 1st few hours of open water had 5' to 10' swells before calming in the more protected waters of the Inside Passage. The low cloud cover started to burn off a little by the time we stopped at Bella Bella. Saw some humpback & Orca whales. In Prince Rupert around midnight after a 16 hour sailing.

Some of this group were also Haida Gwaii bound the next morning from Prince Rupert

In addition to blocks placed under the bike they are strapped down across the seat between star shaped recessed anchor points in the deck of the vessel...use of thick gloves or other protective material placed between the strap & the bike seat are recommended.

If you do not book a state room, highly recommend booking a reserved reclining chair with elevated footrest in the forward lounge for $40....keycard access, nice views, quiet with private bathrooms.  Food in the cafeteria was good & comparable pricing to other BC Ferries. BC Ferries started a pilot program permitting pets to be brought up to a restricted open deck area with access to your vehicle about every 1.5 hours + access to the car deck about every 1.5 hours (access only granted with crew attending)

  

Open waters before Inside Passage

Inside Passage entrance to Burke Channel & Bella Coola

Entrance to Burke Channel & Bella Coola

Bella Bella ferry terminal

Bella Bella

Bella Bella

Dryad Point lighthouse

Dryad Point lighthouse

Boat Bluff Beacon Station

June 12:  Hurry up & wait...arrived 2 hours prior to the 10:30 am departure as required, but had a 2 hour delay in departure from Prince Rupert to Skidegate, Haida Gwaii. Brother Dan, Vicki & Harmony were on the same ferry & again motorcycles loaded last but off loaded near the front of the line this time. A smooth sailing with sunny skies. Dan & Vicki stopped in to meet 2nd cousin Wendi, who knew & adored my birth mother Anita as children in Vancouver, enroute up island to Port Clements.

Brother Dan, Vicki & Harmony are on the same sailing.

Motorcycle camaraderie...mostly the same small group that sailed from Port Hardy to Prince Rupert.

Bikes strapped in & blocked underneath as precaution for rough seas.

Departing the outer islands near Prince Rupert heading for the open waters of Hecate Strait.

Approach of Haida Gwaii with Moresby Island to the south & Graham Island to the north.

Skidegate where 2nd cousin Wendi lives.

June 13:  Explorer Graham Island from Skidegate to Masset. Misty Meadows campground accesses a beautiful & expansive beach just south of the Tlell River. The Rainbow Warf in Port Clements provides panoramic views of Masset Inlet. Tow Hill, 25 km east of Masset via 19 km of well groomed gravel on the north coast accessed via a 1 km hike with steep Grouse Grind like steps has amazing views of the many beaches along the north coast & of the Alaskan coastal mountains. Visited Daajing Diigs (formerly Queen Charlotte City) west of Skidegate enroute back to Wendi's. NOTE that the beach & coastal areas are best experienced at low tide, otherwise they appear rather nondescript.

Graham Island, Haida Gwaii Map

Moresby Island, Haida Gwaii Map

A few km north of Skidegate along the east coast via Hwy 16.

The coast is dotted with sandy bays exposed during low tide.

Misty Meadows Sand Dunes

Rainbow Warf in Port Clements.

Masset Inlet from Rainbow Warf in Port Clements.

Tree trunk art in Port Clements.

Mural on the Port Clements general store.

Mile zero of the Yellowhead Hwy #16 in Masset on the north coast.

End of the road & North Beach near the NE corner of Graham Island.

North Beach near the NE corner of Graham Island.

NE view of North Beach from Tow Hill trail.

West views from Tow Hill view point high above a rock outcrop.

Blow Hole view point.

North Beach from Blow Hole trail.

Collection of shells at Agate Beach.

Agate Beach

Crow at gas station in Masset came to visit his Haida friend who works there

Road side view of channel between Graham & Moresby Islands just east of Daajing Diigs (formerly Queen Charlotte City) on the south coast a few km west of Skidegate & the ferry terminal.

June 14:  Visit the Haida Heritage Centre in Skidegate with Dan & Vicki.

Argillite carving

Wendi gave me a picture of our cousin Ian Tanner who lives just north of London, UK who was my 1st contact with a birth relative via DNA matching in Jan 2024 who remembered my birth mother's name from 2 letters he acquired during his research of his Tanner genealogy over a decade ago. We had a wonderful video call with him earlier in the day.

Wendi also gave me my birth mother Anita's Peridot ring (perhaps a clue to her month of birth as Peridot is the birth stone for August, also my month of birth) that Anita had given her prior to her leaving her mother Doris Tanner's home when just 16 & cutting ties with the Tanner family. Wendi & Anita were extremely close as young children.

Wendi also gave Dan & Vicki a beautiful argillite carving.

June 15:  Join brother Dan, Vicki & their Boxer dog Harmony for day trip to Sandspit on Moresby Island & met their friend Robert for brunch. It was sunny for the short ferry ride over, but became overcast & rainy so opted not to drive down to Grey Bay (universally recommended to see) instead doing a nature walk at the Louise Dover Trail.

Even in a place as remote as Haida Gwaii political bill boards are strategically placed on the Skidegate ferry access loop for all to see.

West view during ferry crossing from Skidegate, Graham Island to Alliford Bay, Moresby Island

Sister-in-law Vicki & me

Me & brother Dan

Sandspit, near airport

West view from Sandspit.

Harmony at Sandspit

Robert Botel, Dan & me

3 km Louise Dover Trail

Thanks Dan & Vicki for the Haida Gwaii t-shirt early B-Day present.

June 16: Goodbye Haida Gwaii & 2nd cousin Wendi Greene (nee Hilton/Tanner), who knew & adored my birth mother Anita as children in Vancouver & my motivation for coming to Haida Gwaii...I have treasured our brief time together, you both will forever be in my heart...on 10 am sailing for Prince Rupert.

Had multiple recommendations for fish & chips at 'Bob's on the Rock' in Prince Rupert...which did not disappoint.

The ride to Terrace along the Skeena River is stunning & dramatic with mountains rising steeply in
fjord like fashion with a few glaciers visible.

 

Wendi & me

'Balance Rock' in Skidegate has remained balanced, likely for millions of years, perhaps a result of an ice age & studied by scientists from all over the world. In severe storms it has been observed to rock but never displaced from it's base & current location. Haida legend has it that when 'Balance Rock' falls Haida Gwaii will sink beneath the waves. Note that the San Andreas Fault lies directly under Graham island.

Skidegate ferry terminal.

Strapped in for the trip

Departure from Skidegate

Skidegate

Prince Rupert Grain Port

Prince Rupert Container Port

Bob's on the Rock in Prince Rupert

Skeena River enroute to Terrace

June 17: On & off rain today for ride from Terrace to Burns Lake to meet the Burns Lake Higginsons...staying with Larry & Margy...many of the family came for a meet & greet dinner. Larry is the eldest of Louise's 4 children, whom I stayed with in Port McNeil & Jerry his younger brother.

Pics below left to right: Larry Higginson, Pam & Jay & daughter Kim Higginson, Carolyn Higginson & step-daughter Taylor Thompson, Larry' s wife Margy, daughters Keara & Brooklyn with parents Allan & Mandy Higginson, me

June 18: Margy makes beautiful quilts using several specialized machines. Larry has several juke box machines & other arcade games remaining from a secondary business he & Margy owned while he worked at the Babine Mill as an electrician. They built a home on the south shore of Burns Lake.

He takes me on a tour of the local area visiting Tchesinkut Lake...my family's 'Golden Pond' we frequented in the '50s & '60s & had a family reunion for Aunt Alice's 60th B-Day in 1990 at Beaver Point..3 of the old log cabins remain, but significant development & new structures exist now.

We take the ferry across Francois Lake & visit Ootsa Lake where dad, his brothers & 2 guides boated & portaged Ootsa & Eutsuk Lakes in 1966. Then had lunch at Takysie Lake.

Margy's computerized long machine for stitching backing onto quilts & 2 other sophisticated sewing machines.

Larry & Margy's view on the south shore of Burns Lake.

One of several juke box machines remaining from a secondary business Larry & Margy owned.

Tschesinkut Lake

Tschesinkut Lake...Beaver Point

Tschesinkut Lake...a new warf that replaced the old one that the family posed for a group pic & jumped off together during Aunt Alice's 60th B-Day family reunion in July 1990.

July 1990 family pic on old warf at Beaver Point Tschesinkut

Tschesinkut Lake, Beaver Point...we rented cabins 3 & 4 in 1990.

1990 pic beside one of the 2 cabins in the preceding pic of my 1983 Goldwing Classic with brother Dan's boxer dog Ming posing.

Francois Lake

Ootsa Lake

Larry Higginson at Takysie Lake where we had a nice lunch

Takysie Lake...a real 'poop deck' on a party barge.

Takysie Lake...Larry & me

June 19: 560 km sunny travel day, depart Larry's 8 am in Burns Lake for 108 Mile Ranch to spend 3 days with friends Cory & Val. Stop in Prince George & find our old house on Spruce Street that dad built in the latter 1950s & visit with cousin Anne Marie Massey in Quesnel.

A family of baby geese came to see me off this morning in Larry & Margy's front yard.

Larry took a few pics from my departure

My 1st 'Mulligan' house when adopted in 1960 that Dad built on Spruce Street in Prince George.

Had a nice visit with cousin Anne Marie Massey in Quesnel.

June 20:  Overcast, a few ominous clouds & some distant blue sky trying to peak through, but no rain so decide to explore back roads west of 100 Mile House toward the Fraser River & Gang Ranch but encounter slick mucky roads about 60 km into the ride. After I went down in a low speed front tire washout we turned around on Dog Creek Road in search of better road conditions, but not before Cory went down sliding into a shallow ditch during the 15 km slow & nerve racking ride back to firmer surfaces & Hwy 97. The bikes & us got mud baths, but all escaped mostly unscathed. Cory considers them skill building experiences...he's not wrong, but definitely pushed me outside my comfort & fun zone.

Had lunch at Eddy's Pub in 70 Mile House & came to the conclusion that we weren't eager to repeat our audition for 2 wheeled Ice Capades & made our way back to Cory's in 108 Mile Ranch via secondary paved roads thru lake country. We suspected that the pub had very regular customers because of the name plates on the back of 6 bar chairs + had an interesting promotion raffle offering a sawed off 12 guage shot gun...$15 for 55 tickets.

Back at Cory's we consoled ourselves with some Yukon Jack on the rocks in custom MTNPK Whistler Mtn & Blackcomb Peak drinking glasses that were a gift from his son Jesse.

Nature calls rest stop west of 100 Mile House, nice fast gravel roads, so far...

Then we turned onto Dog Creek Road & recent rains created very slick, mucky conditions. Hard to tell that I was travelling the other direction...for context it was a slow speed wash out with no damage to bike or rider...BarkBuster hand guards, crash bars, pannier racks & soft luggage did their job.

Got the T7 back up on her tires with Cory's help...one of the few demerit points for the T7 is that she is a very top heavy girl 😞

70 Mile House Eddy's Pub for lunch

A tell tale sign for regular customers was the name plates on the back of 6 bar chairs...the Pub also had an interesting promotion raffle offering a sawed off 12 gauge shot gun...$15 for 55 tickets.

June 21:  Weather still on/off rainy, overcast & cooler than seasonal so stick to pavement & ride to Little Fort for lunch at the High 5 Diner via some entertaining secondary roads skirting by many lakes & along Hwy 24.

Washing off the Cariboo mud from yesterday's ride

My 2021 Yamaha Tenere 700

Cory's 2011 KTM 990 Adventure

Bridge Lake from Bridge Lake North Road

Cory & bikes at Bridge Lake

Lac Des Roches from Hwy #24 viewpoint

I bought my last 2 bikes from GA Checkpoint Yamaha...My Tenere 700 wanted to stop by 'Camp Checkpoint' (see hanging sign post) overlooking Lac Des Roche to see if owner Gord Aulenback had any more T7s to come out & play 😎 

Thanks Cory & Val for the years of friendship, hospitality & riding.

Dan & Vicki stopped to say goodbye to cos' Wendi in Skidegate enroute to the ferry to Prince Rupert today & got a lovely pic of her & Vicki.

June 22:  Weather is not cooperating so homeward bound a day early. I've ridden more than 60 bikes over the years & always wanted to experience what Cory's 2011 KTM 990 Adventure with a well sorted suspension set up & a few other salient tweaks is like so we switch bikes for the ride from 108 Mile Ranch to Clinton via several entertaining back roads & hwy 97. I can see why he is so passionate about it & would be hard pressed to replace it with any current bike that matches it's attributes, performance & capability....KTM was ahead of the curve with the 2006-13 990 Adventure series infusing DNA from their 2002 Dakar winning 950 Rally bike. Despite it's age it is as relevant, enjoyable & capable as any current motorcycle with a synergy few bikes have matched obtaining unicorn & cult bike status for discerning riders that is equally competent & in it's element off-road, on road & adventure touring without all the electronic technology used on today's bikes. Yamaha borrowed much of KTM's design philosophy with my Tenere 700 series Adventure motorcycle.

Unfortunately friends Wendy & John, who operate the Lavender Lane B & B in Lillooet were not home for a visit, so continued on home via the scenic & entertaining Sea to Sky Hwy 99 thru Pemberton & Whistler.

Lavender Lane B & B in Lillooet operated by friends Wendy & John

Home after 16 days & 2,945 km or 1,830 miles of 'Roads of Discovery' + 1,018 km of ferries meeting 15 birth relatives (+ spouses) & exploring interesting & beautiful parts of BC.