Installed new NGK #91909 LMAR8BI-9 Laser Iridium Spark Plugs @ 17,678 km, which are the Iridium equivalent of the oem Yamaha NGK #4313 LMAR8A-9 standard plugs to be changed every 13,000 km/8,000 miles...the oem plugs had no major deterioration with similar discoloration & normal operation of the bike except for a slight increase in vibration/courseness that commenced around 15-16k kms...which has vanished after changing the plugs. Apparently knock off fake plugs are a real thing so do your due diligence to ensure authentic NGK plugs...I sourced mine from a local Vancouver family owned shop 'Modern Motorcycling Ltd' whose everyday prices are usually better than most on-line vendors & dealers. The benefit of iridium plugs is longer service life/interval & improved performance.
Plug Removal Process
The job is involved & time consuming as access to the plugs & coils is restricted. Many thanks to others who have shared techniques, pics & videos on the process that includes removal of the seats, tank & all front side covers the 1st time & then doing a few tweaks that can be time savers for subsequent plug changes, that include removal of the right side plastic electrical tray/wiring harness holder & strapping up the wiring harnesses that blocks access to the plugs. As per the Yamaha Tenere 700 Forum here once the tray is removed both plugs can be accessed & removed from the right side even with the tank in place with the right amount of finesse & tool selection (small hands being an asset). To get a full understanding/appreciation for the job & time saving techniques, as it is my 1st go at it, I removed everything for full access. Once the electrical connectors are detached from the tray & the tray is removed, the large wiring harness on the right side can be held back & out of the way via a bungy cord.
Tech Tips: The fuel line connector to the tank has an orange safety clip that needs to be slid outward to allow removal of the fuel line coupler from the plastic inlet pipe. Note that if the tank is full & leaned to one side, particularly to the right, fuel will leak from the vent pipe located on the underside if the vent hose has been removed.
Right Side Plastic Electrical Tray That Facilitates Easier Access Once Removed
Access to plugs/coils After Removal of Tray
Removal of the plug coils can be difficult, particularly the 1st time. A large flat head screw driver or angled pry bar with a flat head end simplifies removal by inserting it from the back over the valve cover with the flat end prised under the lip of the plug coil shaft (not the protruding plug at the top) at the upper edge of the pliable rubber seal & prying straight up using the valve cover as a fulcrum...a piece of thin plastic, inner tube or cloth can be used to protect the valve cover surface from scarring.
Tech Tips: Clean the valve cover & area around the plug coils prior to removal to prevent debris from falling into the plug holes.
Unbolt dual Hydraulic Lines for Overhead Access to Right Plug (Optional)
Although not necessary, I opted to unbolt the dual hydraulic lines bolted to the center frame spine (2 bolts) which allowed direct overhead access to the right plug with a 14 mm socket + long extensions & 1 u-joint adapter on top of the socket for added flexibility.
Fuel Line Hose used for Plug Removal/Install
In lieu of either a magnetic or rubber insert spark plug socket that holds the plug in place a length of 3/16" or 8 mm i.d. fuel line hose was used to extract & install the plugs.
Loosen ABS pump & Rectifier Bracket for Overhead Access of Left Plug
The left plug benefits from loosening off the ABS pump & rectifier bracket & wiggling it outward to allow direct overhead access of the left plug.
Tech Tips: The plug coils require a firm push down to fully seat on the threaded plug end...having direct overhead access allows sufficient leverage/pressure. Use of dielectric grease on all electrical connections & high temp grease on the coil pack shaft upper sealing ribs is recommended during installation & reassembly which should aid removal in the future.
Reinstall Tank & Body Panels
Tech Tips: If fuel tank was removed ensure that the fuel gauge electrical connector lock tab clicks firmly in place & that the fuel line coupler is positively snapped onto the tank inlet pipe & the orange safety clip is pushed into the locking position. Start bike to ensure proper function & no leaks.
The bike started quick & strong on the 1st crank after installation of a Black Widow Decat Race header which can be viewed elsewhere on my blog here.
Detailed Video by Oumbouk Travel Adventures replacing Yamaha Tenere 700 Sparkplugs
Yamaha Tenere 700 Service Manual Spark Plug Check Instructions
Tech Tips: Yamaha specifies plug gap 0.8 - 0.9 mm or 0.031 - 0.035" (NGK spec is 0.9 mm or 0.035") & 13 Nm or 9.6 lb-ft torque. These instructions include removing the right radiator mount bolt & moving the radiator forward, which is not necessary.
MIVV Dakar Y.064.LDKX Exhaust + Carbon Heat Shield ACC.80.0 Why a New Exhaust? Yamaha opted for Dakar inspired styling & cost savings vs function with the design & location of the oem muffler for the Tenere 700 that positions it precariously low & outside the swingarm, attached to a welded on vs bolt on hanger that easily bends pushing the muffler into the aluminum swingarm with the slightest provocation (there have even been reports that some damaged bikes in the USA have been written off by insurance citing a bent frame). See my blog article here for additional info on the swingarm/muffler issue & several aftermarket T7 exhaust options. The oem wide muffler positioning also complicates the use of some soft bag & rackless systems & clearance with the hot muffler plus mandates that many luggage rack systems be detrimentally far away from the center line of the bike, adding unnecessary width & undesirable handling dynamics at the back end. De...
8 Day, 4,360 km (2,709 mile), 'Rideabout' - 2 Provinces, 5 States, 1 Provincial & 4 National Parks - Aug 7-14, 2024 With each year, & officially a 'baby' senior at 66, motivation & ability to do the things I historically treasured become a plethora of balancing the increasingly disparate physical & emotional realities with the seductive biased recollections of my youth touring much of western Canada & USA, Baja/Central/Northern Mexico & 2 years in Texas via motorcycle...Bob Seger's "Against the Wind' echoes in my head 😎. After having to cancel my Yukon/Alaska trip this June because of recurring back issues, & while no where near 100%, was in need of some throttle therapy & seized an opportunity. The ensuing journey is as much an exploration of my current abilities for a concentrated high mileage solo 1 or 2 week long 'rideabout' without much conditioning & lead up riding as it is about my accessorized ...
Disclaimer: I am just a long time motorcycle enthusiast with moderate wrenching experience/skills (not a professional/Yamaha mechanic) & have compiled this info from others more experienced & knowledgeable as a reference based on my personal experience with my T7 that hopefully can help others. Fork Alignment & Right Fork Caliper/Rotor Position MUST Be Checked After Front Wheel Removal! T he T7 right front axle assembly is a floating design that, depending on several factors, may not correctly position the caliper & rotor for equal gap & can result in the rotor resting against the upper edge of the caliper...not a desirable situation if gone unnoticed. This information is NOT in the Yamaha Service Manual & can be an overlooked issue when changing the T7 front tire .. .the right fork's static/resting position is toward the outside on my T7, which incorrectly positions the inside edge of the caliper to make contact with the rotor ( has been posted by others ...
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